Brent in Texas

March 12th, 2010
bicycle hub motor kits

Hi Golden Eagle!

Attached are 2 pictures of my completed bicycle.

I’m an engineer, and I enjoyed tinkering with this project very much. I enjoy (no, I absolutely love) the bike/motor combination as I can access trails and paths that a moped cannot. I can ride slow on sidewalks, pedestrian trails, etc. and mingle with people and smell the smells. I can also deal with heavy traffic very well too. I can motor along, then when it’s all backed up at a light, I turn the motor off and hit the sidewalk. I got the 40cc 2-cycle.

I feel like I came up with a very good design and would like to share the high level features. It’s a bit pricey, but I’m a quality nut:

* First, the bike. I looked long and hard for the right bike and this one is great. It’s an Electra Townie 21D with flat floot technology. The crankset is forward, allowing the rider to set their feet flat at stops. That’s very nice. Plus you sit upright and the seat is comfortable. I don’t like being hunched over with a lot of pressure on my hands. I do need to add a shock-absorbing seat post.

* I added your big spoke rear wheel… 105 gauge. I had to buy a new 7 speed cassette for it because I didn’t specify the right wheel type. No big deal. $25.

* I don’t like changing flats, and I don’t want sudden flats while flying down the road. I substituted Specialized Armadillo tires with extra thick tubes and slime. $100. Tires are Kevlar reinforced. I got ones with a fairly aggressive tread for dirt, but they’re fairly smooth on top for street use.

bicycle hub motor kit

* Plastic fenders. I learned you need fenders because when you pass over water, you’ll sling it all over when flying down the road. You’ll need to drill a hole in each side of the motor strap mount at a particular place to accommodate the fender attachments. There’s some skill, thought & “ifs” on these holes. Nice thing about the holes is if you do get a flat, you don’t have to remove the motor. If you want details, let me know.

* Bars for bags. I used 1/4″ tubing and had a guy off Craigslist fabricate them. The bars attach on the seat post spot for fenders, and I drilled a hole in each side of the motor strap. Finding the right pipe and fabricating was not easy. I have written specs for the bars. The fabricator said he’d make more for $100 per pair. If he gets orders for a lot, he’ll make a jig for them and the cost will come down. There’s some technique & thought on these too. If you want details, let me know.

* Axiom “Typhoon” waterproof bags. Retail they’re $135. You can get them off the internet for $80.

* Fuel bottle that fits in water bottle holder. You’ll want supplemental fuel, and you need a real fuel bottle for leak prevention, not just any old bottle. Got it at REI.

* I turned the motor 90 degrees because the exhaust was hitting my rear. If you have a large rear, you’ll want to tilt the motor back a little more than the strap that comes with it will allow. I needed to trim the cover with a pair of tin snips.

* Used Loctite blue “Threadlocker” on all nuts/bolts.

* Helmet with rear view mirror. You need a mirror of some sort.

* Safety vest. You’re flying down the road. Get over your self consciousness and take care of your body first.

* Check all tightness often. Falling due to a loose fitting is dumb and not close to worth it.

Thanks so much for bringing such joy to my life.

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