**IMPORTANT READ - DON'T ASSUME**
**DO NOT MODIFY MOUNTING PARTS OR CHANGE ANY
ANGLES
any changes will effect performance and/or
operation **
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Complete Bicycle Assist Engine Kit
with all mount parts |
A. Drive Ring
B. Belt
C. Lower Mount Strap
D. Safety Cover
E. Front Mount Strap
F. Engine w/mount bracket & drive assembly
G. Trigger Throttle, cable attached
H. Kill Button, wire attached
I. Oil - for 2-strokes only
J. 4in1 Ring/Spoke/Gear Key
K. Nuts, bolts, washers, Clutch Knob &
Zip-Ties |
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- Turn your bike upside-down and remove the
rear wheel.
- Place wheel on the ground or work bench,
sprocket/gear side down.
- TIP* Put liquid soap (Q-tips work great)
on slots before installing the drive ring
to avoid possible damage to slots or spokes.
Fig. A (a) - Rotate the Ring over the wheel until all
spokes line up with slots before beginning
ring installation. There is a leading and
a trailing spoke on a bicycle wheel, the
spacing is slightly different, the ring is
tooled to allow for this difference, check
for correct alignment.
Fig. A (b) - Place the 4N1 key, as shown, against the
Outside edge of the ring (on the inside could
cause damage to the belt track of the ring),
hook the spoke with the slot of the 4N1 key.
Fig. A (c) - Insert screwdriver thru hole on the tool,
from the Outside of the ring, place a small
piece of cardboard or rubber between the
tip of the screwdriver and the ring, and
lift on the handle to pull spoke into slot
of the ring.
After 1st spoke is attached, it's best to
attach the spoke on the opposite side of
the wheel next (180 degrees from the 1st).
Work your way back and forth around the wheel
attaching spokes. (i.e. if the wheel were
a clock, it would be - 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock,
3, 9, etc...until all spokes are attached.)
Don't forget to hose soap off after installation.
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| 4. Fig. B - Place the belt in the belt track of the
drive ring and re-mount wheel on bike. Snug
axle nuts and turn bike right side up. |
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| 5. Fig. C - Attach front and lower mount straps to
the engine bracket with the three bolts and
washers (provided), Tighten bolts Securely! |
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6. Fig. D - Lift belt from belt track on drive ring,
loosen axle nuts,
slide rear mount
strap
under belt and onto
axle. Snug, don't
tighten,
axle nuts.
Lower mount strap
is installed on the
outside
of the rear forks,
resting On the axle
for
proper belt tension.
When you slide lower
mount strap onto
axle,
if derailleur nut
prevents lower mount
strap
from sliding down
completely onto the
axle
it may be necessary
to grind or file
a little
off rear corner of
the lower mount strap
where the strap hits
nut.
If bike frame has
large tubing on seat/chain
stays that prevent
proper positioning of engine
- either for caliper
brake clearance or for
convenient fueling/oiling -
it may be necessary
to space lower mount
strap out with a couple
of washers and/or
nut to allow proper clearances.
Both sides Need to
be spaced Equally - same
size spacer on Both
sides to keep engine
mount centered on
wheel.
The closer to the
saddle the engine can be
positioned, the better
the engine performs.
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7. Fig. E(a) - Lower mount strap is installed on the
outside of the rear forks, resting on the
axel for proper belt tension.
Fig. E(b) - Proper belt routing - run belt around
gear on engine's drive shaft, between gear
and tension arm bearing. Install belt on
drive ring - with tension lever in OFF position,
hold belt on left side of drive ring as you
guide belt into the belt track of drive ring.
Fig E(c) - Front mount strap attaches where rear
brake or fender tab bolts on. Front strap
is malleable - you can bend it to fit your
bike, BUT do not bend strap on bolt holes OR crease too sharply, positioning engine so
that belt does not rub against brakes. Tighten
axle nuts And nuts on Front & Lower mount
Securely! |
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8. Fig. F - Proper installation of safety cover w/wing
nut and knob on the tension arm. Tighten
wing nut & Knob Securely! The tension
arm has two positions: Forward/ON position
is for proper belt tension when engine is
in use; Rear/OFF position allows less tension
for easy pedaling when engine is not in use.
9. Run the throttle cable and kill button
wire along the bike frame, away from any
moving parts. Make sure not to Kink (bend
Sharply) cable or attach too tight, may loose
'freeplay' and cause engine to rev. |
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| 10. Fig. G - Trigger throttle just clips onto the right
handlebar, in front of the handle grips.
You can position the trigger throttle for
use with either finger or thumb, whichever
is more comfortable for you. |
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| 11. Fig. H - nstall Kill Button - remove screw from
clamp, attach to left handlebar and return
screw to clamp, tighten. Leave enough slack
in the wire to be able to turn handlebars
Sharply to right and left - if Too tight
wire will be stretched from under insulator,
causing Short. If your handle bars have a
plastic coating, you may need to twist button
a couple of times to break coating before
kill button can make the proper contact with
the metal. Press red button to turn engine
off. |
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**CHECK BRAKES FOR PROPER ADJUSTMENT**
We recommend dual
brakes and that they
be
in good condition,
replace pads if needed. |
**April 2009**
New 76/78mm clutch housing/bell assembly:
Includes new
tool for gear
changes:
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Housing is not metal, now has ground wire
(green), to allow proper Kill Button function.
Rugged plastic housing reduced weight of
unit; has cooling vents in housing and bell,
allowing engine to run cooler (increasing
engine life).
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| Fig. J - Gear wrench slides behind gear (between
two upper bolts on engine bracket) turn the
drive shaft if necessary, wrench will slide
over nut on drive shaft. |
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Fig. K(a) - Hold tool while you turn the
nut on gear with 4n1 tool (second tool included
with unit). Left to loosen - right to tighten.
Tighten Securely!!
Fig K(b) Nut connecting lever to engine bracket
is Only nut of entire unit that should Never
be TIGHT! Arm should swing freely, easily
flipping from On to Off positions. |
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Fig. L - GZ25N ONLY - Use screwdriver that fits
slot on driveshaft, hold screwdriver Firmly
remover gear Not spacer washer - this Always
stays on driveshaft behind gear
52/54mm and Pre 2009 76/78mm and clutch mounts:
- use Allen(provided).
With 4N1 key (provided)
turn gear/nut NOT
driveshaft - replace
with desired gear
and
Tighten. Standard,
Trail or Highway
gear
can be used without
any belt adjustment.
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Fig. M - (for GZ25N only) If gear has been over-tightened
and is not possible to remove - remove safety
cover, loosen engine lock bolt (located on
top of clutch housing/snout and under the
safety cover). Rocking engine back and forth,
remove engine from mount - drive shaft extends
out from engine mount bracket.
Avoid damage to drive
shaft, put a small
piece of cardboard
between shaft and
pliers,
hold shaft with pliers,
use a 3/8" wrench
or 4N1 key and turn
gear (left to loosen,
right to tighten),
should be easy to
remove.
DO NOT over-tighten
changed gear, next
gear
change can be done
without having to
remove
the engine. Re-install
engine on drive shaft,
BE SURE to push engine back COMPLETELY ON DRIVE SHAFT! **Tighten engine lock bolt firmly.
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