Golden Eagle Bike Engines, for Mountain bikes and street...
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Engine Installation


**IMPORTANT READ - DON'T ASSUME**
**DO NOT MODIFY MOUNTING PARTS OR CHANGE ANY ANGLES

any changes will effect performance and/or operation **



Complete Bicycle Assist Engine Kit
with all mount parts
A. Drive Ring
B. Belt
C. Lower Mount Strap
D. Safety Cover
E. Front Mount Strap
F. Engine w/mount bracket & drive assembly
G. Trigger Throttle, cable attached
H. Kill Button, wire attached
I. Oil - for 2-strokes only
J. 4in1 Ring/Spoke/Gear Key
K. Nuts, bolts, washers, Clutch Knob & Zip-Ties

  1. Turn your bike upside-down and remove the rear wheel.
  2. Place wheel on the ground or work bench, sprocket/gear side down.
  3. TIP* Put liquid soap (Q-tips work great) on slots before installing the drive ring to avoid possible damage to slots or spokes.

    Fig. A (a) - Rotate the Ring over the wheel until all spokes line up with slots before beginning ring installation. There is a leading and a trailing spoke on a bicycle wheel, the spacing is slightly different, the ring is tooled to allow for this difference, check for correct alignment.
    Fig. A (b) - Place the 4N1 key, as shown, against the Outside edge of the ring (on the inside could cause damage to the belt track of the ring), hook the spoke with the slot of the 4N1 key.
    Fig. A (c) - Insert screwdriver thru hole on the tool, from the Outside of the ring, place a small piece of cardboard or rubber between the tip of the screwdriver and the ring, and lift on the handle to pull spoke into slot of the ring.
    After 1st spoke is attached, it's best to attach the spoke on the opposite side of the wheel next (180 degrees from the 1st). Work your way back and forth around the wheel attaching spokes. (i.e. if the wheel were a clock, it would be - 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 3, 9, etc...until all spokes are attached.) Don't forget to hose soap off after installation.
4. Fig. B - Place the belt in the belt track of the drive ring and re-mount wheel on bike. Snug axle nuts and turn bike right side up.
5. Fig. C - Attach front and lower mount straps to the engine bracket with the three bolts and washers (provided), Tighten bolts Securely!
6. Fig. D - Lift belt from belt track on drive ring, loosen axle nuts, slide rear mount strap under belt and onto axle. Snug, don't tighten, axle nuts.
7. Fig. E(a) - Lower mount strap is installed on the outside of the rear forks, resting on the axel for proper belt tension.

Fig. E(b) - Proper belt routing - run belt around gear on engine's drive shaft, between gear and tension arm bearing. Install belt on drive ring - with tension lever in OFF position, hold belt on left side of drive ring as you guide belt into the belt track of drive ring.

Fig E(c) - Front mount strap attaches where rear brake or fender tab bolts on. Front strap is malleable - you can bend it to fit your bike, BUT do not bend strap on bolt holes OR crease too sharply, positioning engine so that belt does not rub against brakes. Tighten axle nuts And nuts on Front & Lower mount Securely!
8. Fig. F - Proper installation of safety cover w/wing nut and knob on the tension arm. Tighten wing nut & Knob Securely! The tension arm has two positions: Forward/ON position is for proper belt tension when engine is in use; Rear/OFF position allows less tension for easy pedaling when engine is not inuse.

9. Run the throttle cable and kill button wire along the bike frame, away from any moving parts. Make sure not to Kink (bend Sharply) cable or attach too tight, may loose 'freeplay' and cause engine to rev.
10. Fig. G - Trigger throttle just clips onto the right handlebar, in front of the handle grips. You can position the trigger throttle for use with either finger or thumb, whichever is more comfortable for you.
11. Fig. H - Install Kill Button - remove screw from clamp, attach to left handlebar and return screw to clamp, tighten. If your handle bars have a plastic coating, you may need to twist button a couple of times to break coating before kill button can make the proper contact with the metal. Press red button to turn engine off.


**CHECK BRAKES FOR PROPER ADJUSTMENT**
We recommend dual brakes and that they be in good condition, replace pads if needed.





Changing Gears

Fig. J - GZ25N ONLY - Use screwdriver that fits slot on driveshaft, hold screwdriver Firmly remover gear Not spacer washer - this Always stays on driveshaft behind gear

All other engine mounts- use Allen(provided).
With 4N1 key (provided) turn gear/nut NOT driveshaft - replace with desired gear and Tighten. Standard, Trail or Highway gear can be used without any belt adjustment.


Fig. K - (for GZ25N only) If gear has been over-tightened and is not possible to remove - remove safety cover, loosen engine lock bolt (located on top of clutch housing/snout and under the safety cover). Rocking engine back and forth, remove engine from mount - drive shaft extends out from engine mount bracket.
Avoid damage to drive shaft, put a small piece of cardboard between shaft and pliers, hold shaft with pliers, use a 3/8" wrench or 4N1 key and turn gear (left to loosen, right to tighten), should be easy to remove. DO NOT over-tighten changed gear, next gear change can be done without having to remove the engine. Re-install engine on drive shaft, BE SURE to push engine back COMPLETELY ON DRIVE SHAFT! **Tighten engine lock bolt firmly.

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